Kantha is not just an embroidery, but an intentional piece of art that originated in ancient Bengal. This traditional kantha embroidery was part of women's daily lives, as they made their own designs and stitched khadi thread onto clothes. This was the beginning of the legacy that is still alive around the regions of West Bengal, Odisha, and Tripura. Let’s not end the story here. We have more to explore.
Let’s understand why this textile art is still alive and flourishing. In this blog, we will talk about:
- What is Kantha and How To Do Kantha Stitch?
- 7 Types of Kantha Embroidery: Exploring the Varieties
- Traditional Kantha V/s Modern Kantha
- TZÁR Breaking the Modern Fashion Norms: Kantha With Purpose
Read More: How to Tuck in a Shirt: A Complete Guide for Men
What is Kantha and How To Do Kantha Stitch?
Kantha, which is pronounced as कांथा, was started among rural women who used to stitch intricate kantha threads into shawls and quilts mostly to make them visually appealing.
But these pieces are not just for aesthetic purposes; they were equally functional.
Austrian-born art historian Stella Kramrisch has said something beautiful about Kantha Embroidery:
“The Kanthas of East Bengal are saturated with and express a numinous power, the shakti of this region, working through its women and given form by innumerable disciplined stitches.”
She described Kantha as the shakti of rural women who would put their will, art, and discipline into making patterns resonating with their struggles, moments, and silent expressions.
Now, if you want to know how to do kantha stitch, just think of a “Running Pattern”, which is like a repeated stitch with no breaks.
Here are the steps:
Step 1: Prepare and Layer Fabrics
↓
Step 2: Trace Motif Designs
↓
Step 3: Stitch Outlines
↓
Step 4: Fill & Add textures
1. Preparation and Layering of Fabric
Stack two to four layers of light cotton fabric on top of each other. It can be pre-washed cotton. Mulmul is also a great option. Next, you have to smooth out the lines and wrinkles and pin all the edges. So the layers stay in one place.
2. Trace your Motif Designs
Now you need to trace the exact design from the paper to the cloth. To make your design roughly, you can use a pen, water-soluble chalk, or ink on transparent paper. This way, there is less possibility of any mistake in the patterns.
3. Stitch the boundaries
It’s time to choose the colour of the outline thread. Do the running stitches on the outline and complete the pattern. Work on the motif design on the boundaries.
4. Fill the Design and Add Texture
Now fill the inner design under the boundaries with repeated patterns, parallel running stitches, and geometric patterns. Make sure to choose the right colour for each motif. And here is your perfect Kantha work.
Read More: How to Dress Like You’re in Control: A 9AM–9PM Wardrobe Guide
7 Types of Kantha Embroidery: Exploring the Varieties
Kantha embroidery is not limited to geometrical patterns like repeated triangles or squares. There is variety to this form of textile art. You can find a whole story coming alive while observing the patterns on its base.
1. Lep Kantha
Lep Kantha is the kind of embroidery you stitch on a thick and padded quilt for winters by joining many layers of fabric together. Because Lep word means quilt or covers. You can find flowers and leaves in the patterns, which are inspired by natural elements.
2. Sujani Kantha
Sujani Kantha is one of the Kantha embroidery designs associated with Bihar regions like Bhusura Village and Bhojpur. This focuses on patterns for ceremonies and social gatherings as a decorative and aesthetic art style to express social messages.
3. Baiton Kantha
This embroidery type is different from the rest due to its usage as a book and manuscript cover. Baiton Kantha is the kind of textile art that is famous for being stitched on the cloth covers made to wrap around books.
4. Oar Kantha
Oar Kantha, also known as Oarh, which means border or edge, is related to heavy border motif designing on pillow covers and quilts. It is designed in a way to frame the corners of pillow covers with small patterns like flowers, leaves, birds, and other simple motifs.
5. Archilata Kantha
Coming forward to Archilata Kantha embroidery patterns, here the motifs like vines, flowers, and leaves are stitched on the clothes to dazzle or wrap the combs, jewellery box, and all cosmetic item boxes. Popular among women and exchanged as a gift.
6. Rumal Kantha
Now, Rumal Kantha describes its purpose with its name already. Yes, it is stitched on handkerchiefs and small pieces of clothes. The running patterns are focused on decoration, like Lotus flower design in the center or miniature flowers framing the corners.
7. Nakshi Kantha
Nakshi is the word in the Bengali language that means Naksha. Nakshi kantha is all about artistic patterns like a visual storybook on everyday life, religious stories, animals, and birds. This kantha work type is based on the memories, beliefs, and imagination of rural women.
Read More: What Is Quiet Luxury in Menswear? A Guide for the Modern Indian Man
Traditional Kantha V/s Modern Kantha
The ancient Kantha embroidery style is different in comparison to the modern Kantha art style. What could be the difference? Here you go:
| Feature |
Traditional Kantha |
Modern Kantha |
| Primary Purpose |
Functional and Meaningful in Purpose |
Focus on aesthetics and High-end fashion |
| Base Fabric |
Made from recycled old cloth pieces |
New fabrics are used for the designs |
| Production |
Handwoven & manually stitched |
Manufactured both manually and with machines |
| Value |
Designs are inspired by the way of living |
Abstract and geometrical patterns |
| Applications |
Old saris, quilts, pillow covers, Book wraps |
Shawl, Jacket, Shirts, Pants |
TZÁR Breaking the Modern Fashion Norms: Kantha With Purpose
TZÁR is the bridge that connects the rich heritage with modern design, treating Kantha embroidery as a living art rather than a trend that just comes and goes like it never existed.
By blending handwoven Khadi with the disciplined Kantha-inspired hand embroidery of these women, TZÁR has invested in creating two standout garments:
-
The Armour Khadi Jacket: This Khadi jacket type is structured and versatile enough to be worn as an outerwear with Tritone Kantha embroidery. There is a depth and personality to this handwoven piece.
-
The Roman Striped Khadi Shirt: This Khadi shirt type is focused on striped patterns on its front paneling, placket, collar, and other joints. This balance of traditional khadi work and professional tailoring continues the legacy of khadi.
So, Kantha is more than just an appealing clothing type; it is functional as well. The best thing about Kantha Khadi is its slowness, warmth, sustainability, and timelessness.
So, Kantha-inspired hand embroidery is more than just an appealing clothing type; it is functional as well. The best thing about Kantha Khadi is its slowness, warmth, sustainability, and timelessness.
The legacy of Kantha. Stories Told, Not Just Fabric Stitched
Kantha is not just an embroidery, but an intentional piece of art that originated in ancient Bengal. This traditional kantha embroidery was part of women's daily lives, as they made their own designs and stitched khadi thread onto clothes. This was the beginning of the legacy that is still alive around the regions of West Bengal, Odisha, and Tripura. Let’s not end the story here. We have more to explore.
Let’s understand why this textile art is still alive and flourishing. In this blog, we will talk about:
Read More: How to Tuck in a Shirt: A Complete Guide for Men
What is Kantha and How To Do Kantha Stitch?
Kantha, which is pronounced as कांथा, was started among rural women who used to stitch intricate kantha threads into shawls and quilts mostly to make them visually appealing.
But these pieces are not just for aesthetic purposes; they were equally functional.
Austrian-born art historian Stella Kramrisch has said something beautiful about Kantha Embroidery:
“The Kanthas of East Bengal are saturated with and express a numinous power, the shakti of this region, working through its women and given form by innumerable disciplined stitches.”
She described Kantha as the shakti of rural women who would put their will, art, and discipline into making patterns resonating with their struggles, moments, and silent expressions.
Now, if you want to know how to do kantha stitch, just think of a “Running Pattern”, which is like a repeated stitch with no breaks.
Here are the steps:
Step 1: Prepare and Layer Fabrics
↓
Step 2: Trace Motif Designs
↓
Step 3: Stitch Outlines
↓
Step 4: Fill & Add textures
1. Preparation and Layering of Fabric
Stack two to four layers of light cotton fabric on top of each other. It can be pre-washed cotton. Mulmul is also a great option. Next, you have to smooth out the lines and wrinkles and pin all the edges. So the layers stay in one place.
2. Trace your Motif Designs
Now you need to trace the exact design from the paper to the cloth. To make your design roughly, you can use a pen, water-soluble chalk, or ink on transparent paper. This way, there is less possibility of any mistake in the patterns.
3. Stitch the boundaries
It’s time to choose the colour of the outline thread. Do the running stitches on the outline and complete the pattern. Work on the motif design on the boundaries.
4. Fill the Design and Add Texture
Now fill the inner design under the boundaries with repeated patterns, parallel running stitches, and geometric patterns. Make sure to choose the right colour for each motif. And here is your perfect Kantha work.
Read More: How to Dress Like You’re in Control: A 9AM–9PM Wardrobe Guide
7 Types of Kantha Embroidery: Exploring the Varieties
Kantha embroidery is not limited to geometrical patterns like repeated triangles or squares. There is variety to this form of textile art. You can find a whole story coming alive while observing the patterns on its base.
1. Lep Kantha
Lep Kantha is the kind of embroidery you stitch on a thick and padded quilt for winters by joining many layers of fabric together. Because Lep word means quilt or covers. You can find flowers and leaves in the patterns, which are inspired by natural elements.
2. Sujani Kantha
Sujani Kantha is one of the Kantha embroidery designs associated with Bihar regions like Bhusura Village and Bhojpur. This focuses on patterns for ceremonies and social gatherings as a decorative and aesthetic art style to express social messages.
3. Baiton Kantha
This embroidery type is different from the rest due to its usage as a book and manuscript cover. Baiton Kantha is the kind of textile art that is famous for being stitched on the cloth covers made to wrap around books.
4. Oar Kantha
Oar Kantha, also known as Oarh, which means border or edge, is related to heavy border motif designing on pillow covers and quilts. It is designed in a way to frame the corners of pillow covers with small patterns like flowers, leaves, birds, and other simple motifs.
5. Archilata Kantha
Coming forward to Archilata Kantha embroidery patterns, here the motifs like vines, flowers, and leaves are stitched on the clothes to dazzle or wrap the combs, jewellery box, and all cosmetic item boxes. Popular among women and exchanged as a gift.
6. Rumal Kantha
Now, Rumal Kantha describes its purpose with its name already. Yes, it is stitched on handkerchiefs and small pieces of clothes. The running patterns are focused on decoration, like Lotus flower design in the center or miniature flowers framing the corners.
7. Nakshi Kantha
Nakshi is the word in the Bengali language that means Naksha. Nakshi kantha is all about artistic patterns like a visual storybook on everyday life, religious stories, animals, and birds. This kantha work type is based on the memories, beliefs, and imagination of rural women.
Read More: What Is Quiet Luxury in Menswear? A Guide for the Modern Indian Man
Traditional Kantha V/s Modern Kantha
The ancient Kantha embroidery style is different in comparison to the modern Kantha art style. What could be the difference? Here you go:
TZÁR Breaking the Modern Fashion Norms: Kantha With Purpose
TZÁR is the bridge that connects the rich heritage with modern design, treating Kantha embroidery as a living art rather than a trend that just comes and goes like it never existed.
By blending handwoven Khadi with the disciplined Kantha-inspired hand embroidery of these women, TZÁR has invested in creating two standout garments:
The Armour Khadi Jacket: This Khadi jacket type is structured and versatile enough to be worn as an outerwear with Tritone Kantha embroidery. There is a depth and personality to this handwoven piece.
The Roman Striped Khadi Shirt: This Khadi shirt type is focused on striped patterns on its front paneling, placket, collar, and other joints. This balance of traditional khadi work and professional tailoring continues the legacy of khadi.
So, Kantha is more than just an appealing clothing type; it is functional as well. The best thing about Kantha Khadi is its slowness, warmth, sustainability, and timelessness.
So, Kantha-inspired hand embroidery is more than just an appealing clothing type; it is functional as well. The best thing about Kantha Khadi is its slowness, warmth, sustainability, and timelessness.